Now, the guitar stays in tune and has very decent intonation. He filed the slots to open them up, and topped off the nut, so that they were not so far down in the slots. It was grabbing them on every fretted note, and making them out of tune. He said my nut slots were too tight and too deep on every string. I sent my LP special to the same Luthier. I was ready to give up on the guitar, but a friend had recently fixed his Firebird, which he had been fighting for years. I tried the Gibson "Lightning Bridge" which has a raised zig-zag strip on top of the bridge for compensation. Intonation was way off, especially at 12th and further up the neck. It has set screws at each end to push it further away from the posts for intonating the guitar. I have a 60's LP Special Double Cut VOS with the non compensated smooth top wraparound bridge. If you do decide to go down this route, ensure you get the correct thread type for your original posts as this means they will thread directly into the female anchors which makes this a DIY job and not a trip to the local 'tech! My DC Studio had 5/16" UNF thread (Imperial, sometimes referred to as 'US thread') which i belive is standard for these guitars. One point to note, the Tonepre locking posts are available in metric and imperial thread sizes, these are not interchangable. If you want to return the guitar to original spec, just remove the bridge and posts and replace the originals. This security must improve sustain as it really is a solid connection. They secure the bridge a lot better than the standard posts and old wraparound. ![]() I have fitted the bridge though and it is a sold fit, mainly due to the locking posts. I'd love to tell you that it sustains like never before but, as the project is still a way off finishing i cannot. I have replaced the wraparound with a Tonepros AVT-II which came with Tonepros locking posts. My opinion is different to others, i'm not saying i'm correct and they are wrong, just what i'm comfortable with. I have passed on the wraparound bridge because i don't like them. Whether an "underdog" guitar is worth the time and $150 investment in a new bridge would be debated by some but as far as the owner is concerned that's not the point.I have a '98 DC Studio project on the go now. Then yesterday he asked me if I can take a look at it and - amongst other things - install a better intonable bridge. Some well-intentioned "help" from another friend a few years ago (including change from original lightning bolt bridge to Badass) rendered the guitar unplayable, so the rehab project stalled and the SG went back into the closet. Although the action is way too high, the guitar does have some merits other than its sentimental value: it's ridiculously light (my guess would be 6lbs) and the pickup sounds pretty cool. ![]() Lately, he's become very interested in getting it back out of its case and into proper working order again. But it was my friend's first proper electric and has been with him for 30+ years other instruments have come and gone, but he has kept that one. Its not a particularly desirable or collectible guitar more of an entry-level model with many of the "corner cutting" features you'd expect from the Norlin era. To answer your question latestarter: its an early 70's SG-I, a junior style with one mini-hum pickup. ![]() so I'm wondering if I should make the slots (I have some experience with this and have the appropriate files) or should I leave the the saddles smooth as this is a wraparound? Any thoughts? Also, I notice that the Pigtail (and the very similar assembly that Tonepros sells packaged with their studs) comes without slots cut in the saddles. So, I'd be interested to hear your experiences - good and bad. The Pigtail (which is a lower profile assembly) combined with Tonepros locking studs looks like a much better way to go. This design has a 70's vibe which is appealing to a point, but its also kind of clunky and about 1/8" too tall, so its impossible to achieve a playable action with the shallow neck angle on the Junior. but couldn't find the info I'm looking for with a search so:Īnyone have experience with the pigtail wraparound bridge? I'm doing a repair/setup on a friend's Junior which has a Badass clone (probably the one that Stewmac sells) on it currently. I'm sure this product has been described here.
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